Some places just call you back, again and again. For me and my wife, Thailand is that place. Our story began here in 2010 when we were both just backpackers with worn-out maps and no itineraries. Now, fourteen years later, we return not just as travel bloggers, but as a couple coming home to a place that shaped us.

This February, we embarked on another journey to Thailand, splitting our time between the energetic chaos of Bangkok, the ancient wonders of Ayutthaya, and the pristine shores of Koh Lipe.

Touching Down in Bangkok

There's something about that first touch of humid air when you exit Suvarnabhumi Airport. It's like Thailand's warm embrace, telling you "welcome back." After the long flight, the familiar sights of Bangkok's skyline appearing through the taxi window felt like reuniting with an old friend.

Our accommodation choice this time? The Capella Bangkok. Recently named the number one hotel in the world, we decided to splurge a little. After all, this trip wasn't just about exploring Thailand—it was about celebrating our journey that began here.

The Capella sits gracefully on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, and as we checked in, exhausted but excited, the staff greeted us with genuine warmth. Our room offered panoramic views of the river, its busy traffic of longtail boats and barges flowing past like a living timeline of the city. After a long flight across the Pacific Ocean, we fell asleep right away - lulled to sleep by the distant sounds of the city and the gentle hum of river life below.

Bangkok's Hidden Gems

We awoke refreshed and ready to dive into Bangkok—not the Bangkok of travel brochures, but the Bangkok we've come to love over the years: a city of hidden corners and unexpected treasures.

We headed down to get breakfast facing the Chao Phraya River at the dining room of Capella Bangkok. The menu was a blend of Thai, Japanese, Korea, Chinese, and Western dishes - all cooked to order and excellent!

We then lounged at the pool and explored the hotel grounds of Capella Bangkok for a couple hours. For lunch we had an amazing poolside spread of local Thai food - we recommend the Pomelo Salad and grilled prawns!

Excited to start our exploration of Bangkok, we headed to Khao Mor Wat Prayurawong Sawat. This artificial mountain in a temple complex isn't on most tourist maps, which is precisely why we love it. The highlight? Feeding the resident turtles that gather in droves when they spot visitors. There's something profoundly calming about these ancient creatures, some older than many of the buildings surrounding them.

From there, we wandered to San Chao Kian An Keng shrine, where the scent of incense hung thick in the air. As always, it's the details that captivate me here—the intricate woodwork, the dance of shadows against red and gold decorations, the quiet devotion of worshippers who have been coming here for generations.

The afternoon led us to the Kudjeen community, a fascinating cultural crossroads where Thai and Portuguese heritage blend seamlessly. The Santa Cruz Church stands as testament to this unique history, its architecture a striking contrast to the traditional Thai temples nearby. We spent hours exploring the Portuguese museum, learning about the 400-year history of Thai-Portuguese relations, and sampling traditional Portuguese-influenced Thai baked goods that you simply can't find anywhere else.

As the day's heat began to wane, we meandered through Talad Noi, one of Bangkok's oldest neighborhoods. The narrow alleys here tell stories of Chinese immigrants who settled centuries ago, creating a vibrant community that still thrives today. Auto parts shops sit next to ancestral homes, street art decorates crumbling walls, and elders play chess in the shade while young entrepreneurs operate trendy cafes from renovated shophouses.

The Holy Rosary Church provided another glimpse into Bangkok's religious diversity. Built in 1897 in neo-gothic style, it stands like a piece of Europe transplanted to the banks of the Chao Phraya. Inside, the stained glass windows cast colorful patterns on the floor, creating a peaceful sanctuary from the city's constant motion.

As sunset approached, we made our way to Horsamut restaurant, strategically selected for its unparalleled view of Wat Arun (the Temple of Dawn) across the river. There's an irony in watching the sun set behind the Temple of Dawn, but it creates a silhouette that no camera can truly capture. We dined on contemporary Thai cuisine, the flavors familiar yet innovative, as the temple's spires gradually lit up against the darkening sky.

Our evening ended with an adrenaline rush at Ratchadamnoen Stadium, watching Muay Thai (Thai kickboxing). The ancient martial art combines grace and raw power in a way that mesmerizes even first-time viewers. The crowd's energy is infectious, with locals passionately supporting their favorites while tourists try to understand the complex scoring system. For us, it's become a tradition to catch a match whenever we're in Bangkok—a reminder of Thailand's fighting spirit and cultural pride.

Temples, Canals, and Royal Costumes

Some might call it touristy, but we couldn't resist the opportunity to dress in traditional Thai royal costumes at Wat Arun. This iconic temple, with its distinctive prang (spire) covered in colorful porcelain, is magnificent up close. Adorned in elaborate costumes that was way more affordable than we expected ($8), we posed for photos that will undoubtedly become favorites in our collection. The photographer we hired was also fantastic and very affordable - he charged us about $50 for an hour which included around 150 edited photos and expert knowledge of the best spots to take photos.

From Wat Arun, we crossed the river to visit Wat Pho, home to the massive Reclining Buddha. At 46 meters long and covered in gold leaf, it's a sight that inspires awe no matter how many times you've seen it. We dropped coins into the 108 bronze bowls lining the wall behind the Buddha—a ritual said to bring good fortune and a meditative experience in itself as the gentle clinking creates a soothing rhythm. Our favorite part of Wat Pho though, are the colorful pagodas on the side, which many visitors skip. Definitely check them out!

After immersing ourselves in temple architecture and Buddhist symbolism, we switched perspectives entirely and boarded a long-tail boat to explore the Thonburi canals. While the main river shows Bangkok's public face, these canals reveal its intimate side—stilted wooden houses, children waving from docks, elders mending fishing nets, and the occasional monitor lizard sunning itself on the banks. This network of waterways once earned Bangkok the nickname "Venice of the East," and cruising through them feels like traveling back in time.

For lunch, we stopped at Natura Café in Poomjai Garden, a verdant oasis amid the urban landscape and home to a century old lychee orcard. The restaurant's farm-to-table concept means ingredients are often picked from the surrounding garden minutes before reaching your plate. We enjoyed pork shoulder in curry and delicious drinks while absorbing the chill vibe of the place.

The evening called for something special, so we headed to Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin at the Siam Kempinski Hotel. This Michelin-starred restaurant reimagines Thai cuisine through molecular gastronomy—familiar flavors presented in unfamiliar, often playful ways. The tom yum soup came deconstructed using a familiar coffee method and a series of foams and gels, while mango sticky rice was transformed into an artistic dessert that looked nothing like the street food version but captured its essence perfectly. The ending of the meal was capped by a fun game where they hid desserts made to look like ordinary objects and you had to spot them yourself.

We spent our last night in Bangkok at the Siam Kempinski, falling asleep amid luxury but dreaming of the ancient city we would explore the next day.

Stepping into History in Ayutthaya

Ayutthaya, the former capital of Siam, lies just a short drive north of Bangkok but feels worlds away. Where Bangkok rushes toward the future, Ayutthaya stands proud in its past.

But first, we spent the morning relaxing and enjoying our luxurious surroundings at Siam Kempinski. After that, we hopped into a private van and headed to Ayutthaya.

Our first stop was Wat Klang Khlong Watthana Ram, affectionately known as the "Purple Temple." Less famous than other Ayutthaya sites, its distinctive lavender-hued chedi (stupa) makes it uniquely photogenic. Without the crowds that gather at more well-known ruins, we could explore at our own pace. You can even help paint some of the art that is being added to the temple!

From there, we visited Wat Niwet Thammaprawat Ratchaworawihan, a fascinating architectural anomaly. Built in Gothic style under King Rama V, who had a deep appreciation for Western culture, this Buddhist temple looks more like a Christian church. Reached by crossing the river on a cable car, it's a reminder of Thailand's adaptability and openness to outside influences while maintaining its core identity.

No visit to Ayutthaya would be complete without seeing its most iconic sites. At Wat Mahathat, we joined other visitors photographing the famous Buddha head entwined in tree roots—a powerful image of nature reclaiming human creation and a symbol of Buddhism's endurance. The serene expression of the Buddha, partially hidden by the tree that grew around it over centuries, creates a haunting beauty that photography struggles to capture.

Wat Phra Si Sanphet, with its three distinctive chedis in a row, and Wat Ratchaburana, with its well-preserved prang, offered further glimpses into the splendor of what was once one of the world's greatest cities. Walking among these ruins, I'm always struck by how Ayutthaya's fall in 1767 to Burmese invaders changed the course of Thai history forever.

For lunch, we stopped at Ton Mamuang Cafe & Dessert, a charming spot serving traditional Ayutthaya-style dishes with contemporary presentation. The refreshing cold drinks were particularly welcome after hours in the sun.

As the day began to wane, we boarded a beautifully restored Italian boat with The Wonder Blue Ayutthaya for a sunset cruise around the island city. Seeing the ancient ruins from the water, silhouetted against the orange and pink sky, created a magical perspective. The waterways that once made Ayutthaya a strategic trading center now provide the perfect vantage point for appreciating its fallen grandeur.

Dinner at Baan Pomphet capped our day perfectly. Set in a restored building with river views, the restaurant specializes in giant river prawns—a local delicacy. Grilled and served with a spicy lime dipping sauce, they were some of the most delicious we've ever tasted. As we dined, watching boats pass with their lights reflecting on the water, we reflected on how places like Ayutthaya remind us of life's impermanence—and why that makes our journeys all the more precious.

Traveling to Koh Lipe

After exploring the ancient ruins of Ayutthaya, we embarked on our journey south. A quick flight from Bangkok to Hat Yai, followed by a van transfer to Pak Bara Pier and a speedboat ride, brought us to Koh Lipe by early afternoon.

This island held special significance for me. Back in 2011, during that fateful backpacking trip where I met my wife, Koh Lipe was on my original itinerary. Somehow, plans changed (as they often do when backpacking), and I never made it there. For over a decade, I'd held onto the images I'd seen of this pristine island, and finally crossing it off my bucket list felt like completing a circle.

As our speedboat approached around 3 PM, I immediately understood why this island has gained such a reputation. Koh Lipe appeared before us like something from a postcard—a perfect teardrop of jungle green surrounded by a halo of powdery white sand and concentric rings of blue water, from turquoise shallows to deep azure depths.

We checked into our beach villa at Irene Resort and still had plenty of daylight to enjoy. Within minutes of dropping our bags, we were in our swimwear and racing to the ocean. The warm Andaman Sea welcomed us with gentle waves and crystal clarity. Standing waist-deep in water, I could still see my toes perfectly on the sandy bottom.

The beach was everything I'd imagined all those years ago—soft white sand that squeaked underfoot, palm trees providing natural shade, and water so clear it seemed almost invisible. We spent those precious afternoon hours alternating between swimming and lounging, occasionally glancing at each other with expressions that said, "Can you believe we finally made it here?"

For dinner, we headed to Bok E'tto, a beachfront restaurant where tables are set directly on the sand. The fresh seafood, prepared right before our eyes, was the perfect introduction to Koh Lipe's culinary scene. (I recommend the steamed fish, pork satay, and any of the seafood.) As we dined with our feet in the sand and the sunset painting the sky in dramatic oranges and pinks, I couldn't help but think about my younger self who had missed this island years ago. The wait had been worth it.

Island Time in Koh Lipe

There's a different rhythm on the islands—one governed by tides and sunlight rather than appointments and itineraries. We embraced "island time" completely, starting with watching the sunrise from our villa's beachside view and then ordering an amazing floating breakfast, which is included as part of your stay at Irene Resort!

We then enjoyed a slow and beautiful start to the day while lounging on our private reclining chairs facing the beach.

Around noon, we arranged a private longtail boat to take us island-hopping. Koh Adang, Koh Lipe's larger but less inhabited neighbor, offered hiking opportunities and viewpoints overlooking the entire archipelago. Koh Rawi provided some of the best snorkeling we've experienced, with healthy coral gardens and abundant marine life just meters from shore.

The boatman, who introduced himself simply as Pond, was a wealth of knowledge about local marine ecology and island legends. He showed us hidden coves accessible only by boat and pointed out sea eagles nesting on rocky outcrops. For lunch, he anchored at a deserted beach where we ate fresh fruit and sandwiches prepared by our resort while small reef fish investigated our feet in the shallows.

Upon returning to Koh Lipe in the afternoon, we moved from our beach villa to the resort's treehouse accommodation—a whimsical structure built around a mature tree with its own private plunge pool. The architecture blended perfectly with the natural surroundings, giving us the feeling of being nested in the canopy while enjoying modern comforts.

As the day cooled, we strolled along Walking Street, the island's main thoroughfare that comes alive in the evenings. The street transforms into a vibrant market with vendors selling everything from handcrafted jewelry to fresh fruit shakes. We picked up a few souvenirs and enjoyed impromptu conversations with fellow travelers and locals alike.

For dinner, we arranged a private sunset dinner on the beach—a table for two surrounded by lanterns stuck in the sand, far enough from other diners to feel like we had our own piece of paradise. It was one of the most amazing sunsets we’ve ever seen, with gorgeous pink and orange hues cascading everywhere!

Under a canopy of stars, with seafood caught that morning and prepared with modern Thai and Western techniques, we toasted to the journey that had brought us together years ago and continues to bring us back to Thailand.

Last Day in Paradise

Our final day in Koh Lipe began with another boat trip, this time focused entirely on snorkeling. Thailand's southern Andaman islands lie within the Coral Triangle, one of the world's most biodiverse marine regions. Even with growing concerns about coral bleaching worldwide, the reefs around Koh Lipe remain remarkably healthy.

Equipped with masks and fins, we explored underwater landscapes as colorful and complex as any on land. Schools of parrotfish nibbled at coral, anemones housed protective clownfish, and the occasional sea turtle glided gracefully past. Our guide pointed out tiny creatures we would have missed—seahorses camouflaged against coral fans and nudibranchs in psychedelic colors.

After several hours exploring different snorkeling spots, we returned back to Irene Resort for a couples massage. The skilled therapists used a blend of Thai Massage and Swedish techniques to work out knots from a week of travel. It really was a perfect end to the trip!

For our final dinner, we returned to Bok E'tto, having enjoyed it so much on our first night. This time, we opted again for more seafood and a grilled shrimp Pad Thai - everything once again was super delicious!

As we sat beneath the stars one last time, we reflected on our journey—from the sacred temples of Bangkok to the ancient ruins of Ayutthaya to this perfect island speck in the Andaman Sea. Thailand has given us so much over the years: adventure, perspective, culinary delights, and most importantly, each other.

Tomorrow would bring another complex travel day as we made our way back to Bangkok and eventually home. But tonight, with sand between our toes and seafood on our plates, we were exactly where we needed to be—present in a moment that would soon become another cherished memory of the Land of Smiles.

Travel Notes:

Best time to visit Thailand: November through March offers ideal weather conditions across most of the country.
Getting to Koh Lipe: The island is most accessible during high season (October-May) when regular boat services operate from several mainland piers.
Accommodation: From luxury options like Capella Bangkok to boutique island resorts like Irene Resort, Thailand offers remarkable hospitality at all price points.
Temple etiquette: Always dress modestly when visiting temples, covering shoulders and knees. Remove shoes before entering buildings with Buddha images.
Island conservation: Many Thai islands face environmental challenges from tourism. Choose operators that demonstrate sustainable practices and respect for marine ecosystems.

7 Day Itinerary Thailand: Bangkok, Ayutthaya, Koh Lipe

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